Kamila Aubre

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Botanical Perfumery as Art

Intimate, complex, versatile, close to nature and highly subjective - botanical perfumery is all about self-expression, both for a perfumer and the one who wears botanical scent.

Botanical perfumery, like any other art form, has no boundaries, unless its designer sets clear definitions, whether those are about the naturalness or standards of formulations.

Let’s take a closer look at the key moments which are vital in defining botanical perfumery as part of the art world.

Complexity and simplicity - taking both forms, natural perfumes are versatile, but are based on one common fact, complexity and simplicity go hand in hand both in raw materials, plant matter and their purpose.

Closeness to nature - art started as imitation of nature by humans, in natural perfumery scent is being preserved using traditional methods.

Self-expression - botanical perfumes are a result of one person’s vision. Avoiding standard formulas and imitation of synthetic perfumes, gives more freedom to a botanical perfumer, this leads to a more creative process and unique fragrances.

Boundaries - or transparency are part of a sustainable process or perfume making. It is important to set clear definitions as to what methods, materials and what school botanical perfumes belong too. In fact there are no schools as such, but there are adherents to certain practices, for example, those using natural isolates and those avoiding any ‘grey area’ materials. On the other hand, when cosmetic regulations require certain procedures, this must be clearly stated too, for example, if alcohol must be denatured in a country where perfume is made.

It is large perfume houses that once decided to set the rules for perfumery, in fact, there are simply no rules, no certain formulas, notes, ingredients or a combination of such which would make perfume more professionally made. Artisan perfumers are artists, just as master perfumers are. There is no good or bad artist in the art world, there are renowned, self-made, self-taught, popular, talented, all of those definitions which might describe a person aspiring to create. And as art is created, it will always find its followers and admirers.

Thanks to the fact that botanical perfumery is so personal and changes depending in skin chemistry, it requires and individual approach, each story goes through other people’s experiences creating one whole scent interacting with all five and more senses, most of all with our subconscious and memory, etc. As any art piece it triggers to think about certain points in our life, makes us reminisce about the past, the people we know or used to know, it creates associations and our personal vision which makes it very personal and precious for some. The closeness to our own life, the elusiveness of the botanical scent, the rarity of ingredients, botanical perfumery might be a treasure for some people.

I used to think that my early perfume formulations had to follow standard rules to be considered real fragrances. But as a creative person, I dropped that idea in time. I never tested any natural perfume before creating my own line, this made my fragrances unique in their structure, they reflect my vision, speak about my stories but are always open ended so that you could add your own notes which happens to many. Only after three years, I decided to test a few natural perfume brands and was surprised to learn how all different they were, which proved to be the essence of botany and nature. To be different is to be creative and free. Check the non-standard perfumes which I have created in the last few years which do not even conform to conventional botanical perfumery. Based on perpetual creativity and conceptual art, such perfumes as RedBird (ambiance scent which changes its notes every new season), Parfum d’Esthetique (one note but complex in its botanical character aesthetic perfume to be relished for the sake of scent only), Priesse (perfume based on solely based notes and excludes any top notes, created to support any botanical perfume in its longevity and warmness), etc. and other body fragrances, each carrying its unique story and inspiration rooted in poetry and the aesthetics of the Word.

Using natural perfumes can help you expand your horizons and outlook: for example, Parfum d’Esthetique was designed for creative people to get closer to the pure botanical essences but made in beautiful classic flacons, as a person whose job is to create, I know how important it is to visually enjoy the product of your inspiration. Based on simplicity and complexity, it evokes a few senses, something creative people can only find if they are close to nature, outdoors. So consider botanical perfumery not only a piece of art, but as your own inspiration to create art, even it is only about crafting or occasional journalling, artists do inspire each other, no matter how skilful they are, no matter which purpose they have (I do get inspired by all the messages and comments I receive from those who wear my perfumes and I am immensely grateful for each of them!).